Wednesday 11 December 2013

Lost in Granada

Granada was so consumed by the 20th International Congress of Nutrition that we felt enormously grateful to have found a tiny out-of-the-way hotel, a last minute hotwire choice that was far from the conference centre.

But we had lucked out. The 3-storey Arabeluj was a charming boutique hotel perched on a hillside.  A terrace, perfect for breakfast and end-of-the-day-tapas, overlooked the city.

From the terrace at dusk.

The Arabeluj was also within walking distance of the Alhambra and most everything else listed in our Rick Steeves' Guide.  That the walking was entirely uphill (or completely down, depending on your direction), was of no matter: we had Picos' mountain-walking experience.

Granada's houses are built on hillsides. 

Shamelessly clutching our city map, we set out through streets that are narrow, twisting and poorly marked.




It is very easy to get lost in Granada. And we did.  Frequently.

Don't be fooled.  Bruce is lost.

But getting lost does have its advantages. We discovered, by accident, aspects of Granada that are not in any guidebook. We observed uniformed  private school students arriving at wrought-iron gates in fancy cars.  We followed elderly nuns as they went shopping.  We saw Spanish families out for a Sunday afternoon stroll.

Having left the convent, this nun is now going to the butchers...
...followed by six knowing cats.  (Two are already around the corner!)

Three generations enjoy family time ( and dressing up).
We found parks and fountains, tiny courtyards, and an abundance of graffiti.  For whatever reason, every wall and building appears to be some sort of public palette.  Graffiti are everywhere!

This grafitti-ed corner was right by our hotel as we walked into town.
Not all graffiti was attractive.

There are plenty of graffiti on abandoned buildings, and we saw a few of those.  The economic downturn has not been kind to Spain.


Abandoned office block in central Granada.

One of the largest empty office towers once housed a bank.  It is right beside a favourite downtown meeting place (and bus stop),  Plaza de Isabel la Catolica.


You would think this plaza would be easy to find -- it is beautiful, large, central, and the statue of Isabella, Ferdinand and Columbus is tall and impressive.  But it is not the only imposing plaza in central Granada.   After three days we finally learned to walk there without having to backtrack or go once more around the block!
  
Plaza de Isabel la Catolica.  Guess which is the empty building?  The new (ugly) one.